TRAVEL: Birds, goats, horses, dogs, guests all love Spirit Tree Inn

It's a sort of cross between a down-on-the-farm weekend and an Audubon outing.

Spirit Tree Inn, about three miles east of Patagonia in Arizona's far southeast corner, offers a low-key experience that's ideal for family de-stressing or a couples' getaway. With city life left behind, relaxing becomes mandatory.

We arrived mid-afternoon on a Saturday, to be greeted by owners/brothers Tom and Joe Bartholomeaux. A third owner, Mary Jane Pottebaum, was away that weekend. On our left as we came up the driveway, an enormous Fremont cottonwood tree in a small pasture verified the source of the inn's name.

Maurice, a friendly Nubian goat, poked his head through the pasture fence, begging for some leaves from a just-out-of-reach elderberry tree. Joe explained that someone had simply left Maurice at the ranch, figuring that he'd probably have a good home. The well-mannered guy loves guests, is good with children, and fits right in.

Our room in the 1920s main house, the Lavender Room, was a study in soft pastels and flower-print café curtains. Once the ranch house for Rocking Chair Ranch, the adobe walls provide such good insulation that the interior temperature varies by just four to six degrees no matter what the season. That, and the 4,300-foot elevation, make Spirit Tree a great summer getaway when Ahwatukee Foothills temperatures sizzle.

With a king-sized bed, private bath with shower and access to a cool veranda, the room was a pleasant retreat. We could have opted for two other main house rooms, or either of two detached guest houses with kitchenettes that are dog and kid friendly.

Amish barn

After settling in, Tom walked us over to the late 1800s-era barn that had been trucked, board by board, from an Amish area of Pennsylvania and reconstructed at Spirit Tree. From hand-made square nails to rough-hewn beams to the original hay hook, the barn is a fascinating piece of history.

"We needed it for our livestock, and it just seems to fit the property," Tom said. Eventually the loft will be used as a museum of historic farm equipment and a reception area. The resident horses are not offered for riding, but guests may bring their own mounts and put them in the inn's corral.

That evening on the patio, over the bottle of fume blanc we'd brought with us, we chatted with sisters who'd come from Northern California to explore Arizona's wine country.

Also in residence were a couple from Litchfield Park who'd flown to Nogales Airport in their Cessna Cardinal 177 along with their large Golden Labrador Retriever, Bo.

"He loves to fly," they told us, and Bo is quite happy aloft simply sprawled across the plane's back bench seats.

A brother and sister from Australia, along with their British mum, had come for the birding and were delighted to have spotted a zone-tail hawk.

Fabulous birding

Although we didn't see the elusive zone-tail hawk that is the Holy Grail for many birders, we did spot a beautiful gray hawk that struck a three-minute chamber of commerce pose on a dead limb. At dusk the night before, Tom pointed out an elf owl family that had made a home in a telephone pole.

Among other avian beauties was the incomparable vermilion flycatcher. The brilliant little red bird is an absolute work of art when viewed against the background of a lacy green mesquite tree. As we sat near the bird feeder on the inn's quiet patio we saw flashy red cardinals, curve-bill thrashers trilling their melodious tune, cute little Downey woodpeckers and assorted doves.

The birds seemed unbothered by Sue and Callie, the inn's exceptionally friendly kitties. Tom told us they lived outdoors during the day, but came in after dark so as not to become a midnight snack for the great horned owls we were to hear that night.

Culinary fun

On our way to the inn, we stopped at one of our favorite Patagonia eateries, Velvet Elvis. The whimsical name doesn't do justice to the seriously good food. One of us chose the Santa Fe Baby salad, a wonderful mix of baby organic greens, roasted pine nuts, crispy apple slices and cheese wedges drizzled with a tangy balsamic vinegar reduction. A bowl of homemade vegetable soup and a just-baked roll were equally satisfying.

Most memorable were the limonada Rosa, a refreshing blend of hibiscus and fresh lime, and a velvety mango ice cream. The latter was made with no sugar at all, getting its sweetness from perfectly ripened fruit. And, yes, there really is a velvet Elvis Presley hanging in a place of prominence.

At Spirit Tree the next morning Tom, a recognized chef with a five-star restaurant background, prepared breakfast at the time of our choosing.

We'd already had several cups of coffee (decaf brewed at our request) when we settled around an elegant Chippendale-style table that could seat a dozen guests. Plates of eggs with spinach and mushrooms, a chutney-like blend of mango and pineapple, beer potatoes and orange juice disappeared quickly.

After our final birdwatching stroll, we took the scenic route home, following Highway 82 from Patagonia to Sonoita, Highway 83 to Interstate 10, and leaving I-10 in Tucson to meander through Catalina, Oracle Junction and Florence before coming to Chandler.

It seemed a fitting way to end a lovely, quiet, stressless weekend.

Travel writer/photographer Judy Wade and Bill Baker pack and unpack in Ahwatukee Foothills.