TRAVEL: Find the best of sun, surf, sand in Redondo Beach

A little Cal 28 is just hoisting its sail, on its way to clearing a breakwater as it moves into open ocean. A chorus of California sea lions barks a goodbye.

We're enjoying a late-afternoon glass of merlot on our balcony at the Portofino Hotel & Yacht Club in Redondo Beach, Calif. Niched on a little peninsula at King Harbor, the hotel has the Pacific on one side and a yacht harbor on the other. Our room looks out on an aquatic pathway that's an ongoing panorama of sport fishers, kayaks, sailboats and rowboats.

It had been a number of years since we'd stayed at the Portofino, and we were delighted with its recent refurbishment. Our spacious room had a casual beach look, with wide-stripe wallpaper and white wainscoting. Twenty-first century amenities included a large flat-screen TV and bathroom with vessel sink.

That evening we walked over to the marina side to visit Baleen, the hotel's signature restaurant. It's billed as an eatery with "serious food and a whimsical mood," which pretty much matched our state of mind.

We decided on the Hot Japanese Saku Stone Sashimi for two. A coupe-shape bowl with rock salt and a smooth, dark, very hot stone was set in front of us. Using chopsticks we picked up a morsel at a time, dipped it in any of three sauces, and sizzled it to our liking. Followed by two steaming bowls of cioppino, it definitely supplied our seafood fix and desire for food that fills.

The Pier

The Portofino is within a 15-minute walk of the Redondo Pier, which comes alive with a cross-section of humanity even before the sun is up. Joggers and walkers dodge early-morning fishermen angling for mackerel.

Once the shops opened, we stopped at Mie Pearl where we each selected a very-much-alive oyster from a large bowl of the crusty creatures. Although they didn't quite make a matching pair of earrings, we each came away with a good-sized pearl.

After an hour or so of browsing, we stopped at "old" Tony's, a Pier icon, where the Crow's Nest affords a 365-degree view of the Pier, harbor and ocean. Large glass fish floats hung above a circular bar. Before returning to the hotel we made a mental note to come back to Harvelle's Jazz Club, where Pancho Sanchez would be doing some super salsa and Latin numbers that evening.

Sun fun

In succeeding days we snagged a pair of complimentary beach cruisers at the Portofino to pedal a portion of the 27-mile strand that extends oceanside along the coast. We hopped aboard the double-decker Voyager for a 40-minute narrated nature cruise along the coast.

We lolled at the Portofino pool, which overlooks the ocean, and took a short drive inland to Riviera Village for a browse through interesting boutiques that include Harmony Works. It's the place to find unique gifts that include women's purses made from retired parking signs, and unusual gift cards.

One morning we took a 10-minute walk over to the Crowne Plaza for a buffet breakfast at Splash Mediterranean Bistro.

Guests can order from a menu, choose from a substantial buffet, or (as did we) wander into the display kitchen for made-to-order omelets or waffles.

Even though we were not guests, we poked around the hotel and investigated the Body Etc. European Spa. A glance at the spa menu - 75-minute hot stone massage, $115, and a European facial, $70 - amazed us. At these prices, could the treatments be worthwhile? A departing guest assured us they were.

Super food

That evening we returned to the Pier for dinner at Kincaids. Reminiscent of the great fish, chop and steak houses of the past, its appeal is intensified by dramatic ocean views. Our flash-seared Pacific ahi and pan-roasted snapper were almost overshadowed by an afterthought dish of cedar-wrapped asparagus with bearnaise. Tender green shoots just barely absorbed the essence of cedar, then were enhanced by the tang of tarragon.

We enjoyed another memorable meal at Polly's on the Pier the next morning. The food - bran muffins and a pair of steaming mugs of coffee - certainly was adequate. But that wasn't what caused the experience to stay with us.

Polly's is located on Redondo's "old," or sport fishing pier. It's the place for lingering over coffee and the morning paper, watching local characters stroll by. Our server knew not only the names of her customers, but the names of their dogs.

Loading its cargo of anglers destined for a day at sea, a large sport fishing boat bumped gently against the Pier. The sturdy old wood structure responded with a gentle tremble. The whole experience is quintessentially small-town and friendly, an element getting more and more difficult to find.

It seems that everyone walks, bikes or skates on Redondo Beach. So bring comfy shoes, a sweatshirt for early mornings when May Grey and June Gloom may envelop the waterfront until the sun breaks through, and have fun. That's what being by the ocean is all about.

Judy Wade and Bill Baker pack and unpack in Ahwatukee Foothills.