Chefs, home cooks going whole hog for lard - Ahwatukee Foothills News: Recipes

Chefs, home cooks going whole hog for lard

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Posted: Wednesday, August 29, 2012 3:45 pm | Updated: 4:46 pm, Thu Sep 13, 2012.

If ever there was an old-school comestible with a fat chance at trendiness, lard would seem to be it. The name alone is enough to conjure up a frisson of dismay. Nonetheless, lard appears poised to make a comeback.

Chefs have been championing lard for some time — and some home cooks never gave it up — and high-quality versions of the fat have become available from artisan producers. Meanwhile, the people behind Grit magazine have written the book on lard, to wit: “Lard: The Lost Art of Cooking with Your Grandmother’s Secret Ingredient.”

The book, “really came out of one of those crazy, fun, brainstorming sessions,” says Hank Will, editor-in-chief of Grit, which is based in Topeka, Kan., and focuses on American rural life.

Editors were looking for a way to utilize their huge recipe database and got to talking about how animal fats, particularly those that aren’t highly processed, are making a comeback as research has switched the focus to trans fats as the bane of healthy eating.

The result is 150 recipes gathered from more than 100 years of the magazine, including biscuits, fried chicken, pie crust and flour tortillas.

For San Francisco chef Chris Cosentino, executive chef at Incanto restaurant and known for his nose-to-tail cooking, lard is a natural byproduct of his whole-animal approach. “When we’re getting a very beautiful hog, we try to use every bit of it,” he says. “I think to do so is just the right thing.”

As a further refinement, he likes to keep dishes animal-specific, cooking chicken in chicken fat, pork in pig fat, etc.

Neither Cosentino nor Will advocates eating huge amounts of lard; it is, after all, fat. But Will notes that it has less saturated fat than butter and is unequaled for things like flaky pastry. “It’s like any fat, you don’t want it to be a huge proportion of your diet, but there’s nothing wrong in getting at least part of your fat dose in lard.”

For more information online, visit http://www.grit.com/lard-home.aspx#ixzz22RVv3YFn.

 

Rocky Mountain Green Beans

Start to finish:


20 minutes

Servings:


6

2 cups fresh green beans

3 tablespoons lard

2 tablespoons minced onion

1 tablespoon minced green bell pepper

3 tablespoons all-purpose flour

1 teaspoon salt

1/4 teaspoon ground black pepper

1/2 teaspoon paprika

1 cup milk

1 pimiento, chopped

1/4 cup grated Monterey Jack cheese

DIRECTIONS

Bring a large saucepan of water to a simmer. Add the green beans and cook for 4 minutes, or until tender. Reserve 1/2 cup of the cooking water, then drain the beans and set aside.

Meanwhile, in a large skillet over medium-high, heat the lard. Add the onion and bell pepper and saute for 2 minutes. Add the flour, salt, black pepper and paprika. Stir well and cook for 3 minutes.

Gradually whisk in the milk and the reserved cooking water from the beans. Cook over low heat, whisking constantly, until thick. Remove from the heat. Add the pimiento and cheese, then stir until the cheese melts. Place the cooked beans in a serving dish and pour the sauce over the top. Serve immediately.

(Recipe from “Lard: The Lost Art of Cooking with Your Grandmother’s Secret Ingredient” by the editors of GRIT Magazine, Andrews McMeel Publishing, 2012).

Nutrition information per serving (values are rounded to the nearest whole number):


130 calories; 80 calories from fat (62 percent of total calories); 9 g fat (4 g saturated; 0 g trans fats); 15 mg cholesterol; 8 g carbohydrate; 4 g protein; 2 g fiber; 360 mg sodium.

 

Spaghetti And Chicken Livers

Start to finish:


30 minutes

Servings:


8

1 pound spaghetti

2 tablespoons olive oil

1 large yellow onion, diced

3 cups tomato juice

Salt and ground black pepper

1/2 cup grated mozzarella cheese

1/2 cup lard

1/2 pound white button or shiitake mushrooms, sliced

1 pound chicken livers, sliced into 1/2-inch pieces

1/4 cup grated Parmesan cheese

DIRECTIONS

Bring a large pot of salted water to a boil, then cook the spaghetti for 5 minutes (it will not have finished cooking). Drain and set aside.

In a large skillet over medium-high, heat the olive oil. Add the onion and saute for 10 minutes, or until golden brown. Stir in the tomato juice, 1/2 teaspoon salt and 1/4 teaspoon pepper. Add the mozzarella gradually, blending thoroughly, then lower the heat and add the cooked spaghetti. Simmer for 10 minutes, stirring constantly, until thoroughly heated.

In a separate skillet over medium-high, heat the lard. Add the mushrooms and chicken livers and saute for 10 minutes, or until the mushrooms are browned and the livers are cooked through. Season with salt and pepper.

Place the spaghetti on a serving platter, then spoon the sauteed livers and mushrooms over the top. Sprinkle with Parmesan cheese and serve immediately.

(Recipe from “Lard: The Lost Art of Cooking with Your Grandmother’s Secret Ingredient” by the editors of GRIT Magazine, Andrews McMeel Publishing, 2012).

Nutrition information per serving (values are rounded to the nearest whole number):


500 calories; 200 calories from fat (40 percent of total calories); 22 g fat (8 g saturated; 0 g trans fats); 215 mg cholesterol; 52 g carbohydrate; 22 g protein; 3 g fiber; 640 mg sodium.

© 2014 The Associated Press. All rights reserved. This material may not be published, broadcast, rewritten or redistributed.

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