Paris • Stella McCartney did some spring cleaning for her fall-winter show in Paris, replacing her old wardrobe standbys with a ready-to-wear collection that was more textural and sculpted than usual.
With exaggerated lapels, it was the British tailoring staple — the dark pinstripe suit — that was reimagined.
“I wanted a refresh in a classical way,” the designer said backstage at Paris’ neo-baroque Opera Garnier. “Women have a masculine side and if you tap into that, you find another part of yourself.”
But for McCartney, the most feminine of designers, the menswear allusions were only hinted at. The signature remained relaxed, with soft silhouettes and circular cuts in silk duchess and silk cloquet jacquard.
The show began half an hour late. Hold-ups like that unusually annoy the fashion crowd, but not when the designer is waiting for her dad, Paul McCartney.
The former Beatle walked in tardily and was overheard saying “Walk, walk, walk like a model” as he swaggered theatrically to find his seat. It provoked smiles from the front row, which included U2 singer Bono.
Vivid hues of fuchsia on oversize dresses and coats sported voluminous fronts which tipped for forward the balance of the silhouette.
And bands of sporty elastic were sewn into some looks — what one fashion editor called “elastic fantastic” — to produce a notable silky, pear-shaped silhouette.